Toronto: Where the Whole World Meets
Every city has its own feel, and Toronto’s is relentless, ambitious, and staggeringly diverse. Standing at the corner of Spadina and Dundas, you’ll hear Cantonese, Portuguese, Hindi, and Spanish in a single block — over 200 languages spoken in a city of 2.9 million, making Toronto one of the most multicultural urban areas on earth.
The city doesn’t have one identity; it has hundreds, layered by neighbourhood, by immigration wave, by generation. That’s not a bug — it’s the feature. The food alone is worth the flight.
Getting Around
TTC (Toronto Transit Commission) runs subway, streetcar, and bus. A Presto card (tap-on, tap-off) makes it seamless. A day pass is $13.50 CAD. The subway covers most tourist areas; the King and Queen streetcars connect east-west through the most interesting neighbourhoods.
Biking is excellent from May through October — the Waterfront Trail extends for kilometres along Lake Ontario with views of the islands.
For Niagara Falls: GO Bus from Union Station ($15 CAD, 2 hrs) or rent a car for more flexibility.
Things to Do
CN Tower — You have to. The 553m tower dominated the skyline for decades. The glass floor at 342m is genuinely nerve-wracking. The EdgeWalk (hands-free walk outside the tower at 356m) is for those who want a story to tell. Book ahead and arrive early morning to beat tour groups.
Kensington Market — Not a formal market but a neighbourhood of vintage stores, independent cafes, Caribbean food stalls, and absolute character. The kind of place you wander for three hours and buy nothing but feel completely satisfied. Spadina and College Streets are the heart.
Distillery District — Victorian red brick distillery buildings (once the largest in the British Empire) converted into art galleries, boutiques, restaurants, and craft beer bars. Beautiful on a sunny afternoon. The Christmas market here is magical.
St. Lawrence Market — Named the world’s best food market by National Geographic in 2012 and still earning it. The Saturday Farmers Market on the north side is brilliant. Go early for the peameal bacon sandwiches (a Toronto institution — not bacon rashers, but Canadian back bacon rolled in cornmeal). ~$8 CAD.
Royal Ontario Museum — World-class encyclopedic museum: Egyptian mummies, full-scale dinosaur skeletons, Indigenous art, and Michael Lee-Chin Crystal addition that splits opinion architecturally. Allow 3-4 hours. $23 CAD adults.
Toronto Islands — A 15-minute ferry from the waterfront brings you to car-free Algonquin and Ward’s Islands. Rent a bike, picnic on the beach, and get the best skyline view in the city at sunset. Ferry $9.02 CAD return.
Where to Eat
Canoe — Iconic Canadian cuisine at 54 floors up in the TD Bank Tower. Bison tartare, Ontario lamb, BC halibut — all impeccably sourced. The lunch prix-fixe is better value. ~$80-120 CAD mains at dinner.
Momofuku Noodle Bar — David Chang’s Toronto outpost serves the best ramen in the city. The fried chicken is legendary. Arrive when it opens or queue. ~$20-35 CAD.
Bar Isabel — Spanish tapas in Little Italy that Toronto’s food world can’t stop talking about. The patatas bravas, prawn skewers, and tortilla are flawless. Reserve weeks ahead. ~$40-60 CAD per person.
Pai Northern Thai Kitchen — Consistently rated Toronto’s best Thai. The khao soi (Chiang Mai curry noodle soup) is why people come back repeatedly. Busy — arrive at opening. ~$20-30 CAD mains.
St. Lawrence Market peameal bacon sandwich — $8 CAD at Carousel Bakery, Saturday morning only. The quintessential Toronto food experience.
Terroni — The best pizza in the city. No substitutions, no splitting (it’s Italian), loud and chaotic and wonderful. Multiple locations. ~$25-35 CAD per pizza.
Where to Stay
The Hazelton Hotel ($400-900 CAD/night) — Toronto’s finest boutique hotel in the heart of Yorkville. Rooms designed by one of Canada’s top interior designers. Indulge.
Le Germain Hotel Toronto ($250-450 CAD/night) — Chic boutique hotel in the Entertainment District. Contemporary Canadian design, excellent breakfast, walking distance to Distillery and CN Tower.
Global Village Backpackers ($35-65 CAD/night) — The go-to hostel near Kensington Market. Social atmosphere, rooftop patio, central location.
Scott’s Pro Tips
Logistics: Union Station is the hub for everything — GO trains to Niagara, VIA Rail to Ottawa/Montreal, TTC subway connections, and the UP Express to Pearson Airport. Get a Presto card immediately.
Best Time: September and October for warm days, cool nights, and spectacular fall colour. June and July are also great. Avoid January and February unless you specifically want the winter experience.
Getting Around: TTC is reliable but slow. King streetcar in particular runs frequently but gets stuck in traffic — walk parallel streets if you’re in a hurry.
Money and ATMs: ATMs everywhere. Major credit cards accepted universally. Tipping is 18-20% at sit-down restaurants. $1-2 for coffee counter service is appreciated.
Safety and Health: Toronto is very safe by major city standards. The PATH underground walkway (30km under downtown) is useful in winter or rain. Emergency: 911. Walk-in clinics for minor medical needs (no OHIP without Ontario health card — bring travel insurance).
Packing: Pack for all conditions in spring and fall. Toronto weather changes fast. Comfortable walking shoes essential — neighbourhood exploration is on foot. In summer, bring sunscreen; in winter, serious cold-weather gear.
Local Culture: Torontonians are generally polite and orderly — queue properly, hold doors, say sorry when you bump someone (it’s reflexive here). Tipping culture is important. Sports are religion: the Raptors and Maple Leafs are the local obsessions.