Victoria: Canada’s Garden City
Victoria surprised me. I’d expected a sleepy retiree town with colonial overtones and not much else. Instead I found a genuinely beautiful harbour city of 400,000 with extraordinary food, serious cycling culture, an obsession with gardens, and the mildest climate in Canada — where palm trees actually grow outdoors and daffodils bloom in February.
The British overtones are real but affectionate rather than anachronistic. The Empress Hotel dominates the Inner Harbour as it has since 1908. Double-decker buses run the tourist routes. The afternoon tea culture is taken seriously. But Victoria has evolved well beyond its colonial postcard identity into something much more interesting.
Getting Around
Cycling is the best way to experience Victoria — the city has one of Canada’s most extensive urban cycling networks, and the Galloping Goose Regional Trail extends 55km from downtown to Sooke through forest and farm land. Rent from Cycle BC ($35-50 CAD/day) near the Inner Harbour.
BC Transit buses cover the greater Victoria area. A day pass ($5.50 CAD) handles most tourist movement. Taxis and rideshare are available throughout.
For Butchart Gardens: Drive (25 min north) or take BC Transit Route 75 (1 hour, $2.75 CAD).
Things to Do
Butchart Gardens — The most visited attraction on Vancouver Island deserves its reputation. Fifty-five acres of themed gardens — Sunken Garden, Italian Garden, Japanese Garden, Rose Garden — created in a 100-year-old limestone quarry. The Saturday evening summer shows (fireworks, live music, illumination) are magical. Go late afternoon to experience both daylight beauty and evening illumination. $40-47 CAD adults.
Fairmont Empress Afternoon Tea — A Victoria institution since 1908. The three-tier stand arrives with finger sandwiches, fresh-baked scones with Devon cream and jam, and miniature pastries. Presented in the beautiful Tea Lobby. Book ahead — it sells out weeks in advance. $100 CAD per person. Worth every dollar.
Whale Watching — The Salish Sea has one of the highest concentrations of marine mammals in the world. Orca pods (resident and transient), humpback whales, minke whales, Dall’s porpoise, and harbour seals are common sightings. Tours depart Inner Harbour May through October. $120-150 CAD, 3-3.5 hours.
Royal BC Museum — One of Canada’s finest provincial museums: First Nations cultures, natural history, and a recreation of early 20th-century Victoria streets. The mammoth skeleton is remarkable. $26.95 CAD adults. Closed Tuesdays.
Beacon Hill Park — 75 hectares of ancient Garry oak meadows, duck ponds, and English-style gardens at the edge of the Inner Harbour. The 0km marker of the Trans-Canada Highway is here. Free.
Where to Eat
The Courtney Room — Victoria’s best tasting menu restaurant. Pacific Northwest ingredients prepared with precision and creativity. Halibut cheeks, Dungeness crab, Vancouver Island rabbit. Reserve weeks ahead. ~$120-180 CAD per person.
Fishhook — The best fish and chips in Victoria, and they’re Mauritius-influenced with curry additions that elevate the classic. Located in the Public Market. ~$18-25 CAD.
Il Terrazzo — Romantic Italian in a heritage brick courtyard. The housemade pasta and BC seafood preparations are exceptional. ~$35-55 CAD mains. Victoria’s best date-night restaurant.
Roast — Outstanding brunch. The smoked salmon eggs benny with hollandaise is definitive. ~$18-28 CAD. Queue expected on weekends.
Fol Epi — The city’s finest bakery. Sourdough loaves, croissants, and a coffee program that takes itself seriously. Pick up a loaf for the ferry journey home. ~$6-12 CAD.
Where to Stay
Fairmont Empress Hotel ($300-700 CAD/night) — The defining Victoria experience. Inner Harbour views, beautiful Edwardian rooms, pool, Bengal Bar. Even the cheapest room has character.
Magnolia Hotel and Spa ($200-380 CAD/night) — Boutique luxury in downtown Victoria. Beautiful rooms, excellent restaurant, spa facilities. Our preferred mid-range choice.
Ocean Island Inn ($35-85 CAD/night) — Well-run hostel and budget hotel steps from the Inner Harbour. Mix of dorms and private rooms. Free wifi and lockers.
Scott’s Pro Tips
Logistics: Book the BC Ferries crossing in advance in summer — the Tsawwassen-Swartz Bay route gets booked up on summer weekends. The Harbour Air floatplane is faster and more spectacular (35 minutes, Victoria Inner Harbour to Vancouver downtown) but pricier.
Best Time: May through September. May is often underrated — Butchart Gardens at peak bloom, fewer crowds, prices not at peak. July and August are peak: warm, busy, expensive.
Getting Around: Cycle the Galloping Goose for the Victoria experience. The Inner Harbour is walkable. For Butchart Gardens, rent a car or take the BC Transit bus.
Money and ATMs: ATMs throughout downtown. Victoria is slightly less expensive than Vancouver. Tipping culture same as rest of Canada (18-20% at restaurants).
Safety and Health: Victoria is extremely safe. The downtown core has some visible homelessness around the bus depot area. The rest of the city is very pleasant. Victoria General Hospital is the main facility.
Packing: Even in summer, bring a light jacket — evenings cool quickly near the water. Comfortable walking/cycling shoes. In spring: layers and rain gear.
Local Culture: Victoria is proud of its cycling culture — respect bike lanes and share paths. The gardens culture is taken seriously; Butchart and city flower displays are genuinely important to residents. The afternoon tea tradition, while touristy, is also genuinely loved by locals.